Around Montes de Toledo

Route: Puerto Lápice – Villarubia de Los Ojos – Los Cortijos – Retuerta Del Bullaque – Sevilleja de la Jara – Talavera de la Reina – Toledo – Consuegra – Puerto Lápice

13 April 2026: From Puerto Lápice to somewhere along GR 162
15,18 km – Altitude climbed: 321 mtr

In the east, the Montes de Toledo mountain range rises up from the plains of La Mancha and continues west all the way through the Extremadura to the Portugese border.  Highest peak is ‘La Villuerca’, 1.603 meter in Badajoz province, Extremadura Region.

I concentrate this trip on the eastern part in Ciudad Real and Toledo provinces, both in the Castilla-La Mancha Region.  I start in the village Puerto Lapice, which everybody knows of course because this is the village where Don Quixote was knighted.  Initially, I’m following the GR 162 route.  Via a good off-road track, I’m slowly climbing into the mountains.  I’m surprised to pass a more or less deserted village on the way in.  First day is pretty short.  I find a good camping spot close to the highest point of the route.

This part of the mountains is home to the Iberian Lynx.  Let’s hope I get to see one.  Chances are small.

14 April 2026: From somewhere along GR 162 to a few km passed Los Cortijos
71,88 km – Altitude climbed: 580 mtr

I camped at an altitude of 970 meter.  It was only another kilometer towards the highest point of this track at 1.004 meter.  A bit after the highest point, Continue reading “Around Montes de Toledo”

Camino del Cid, Prt. 2

This trip will be remembered as a rainy and cloudy one, almost from the start weeks ago, till now towards the end.  It wasn’t raining, entering Molina de Aragon, but can’t say it was nice, balmy weather either, which you would expect this time of year.  I passed through this place once before in 2016, on my off-road trip from Hondarribia at the Atlantic in the north of Spain, to Cartegana at the Mediterranean in the south of the country.  All about that trip here.

Entering Molina de Aragon.
Molina de Aragon.
Molina de Aragon.
Looking back towards Molina de Aragon, as the rain resumes.

Upon leaving Molina de Aragon, it started raining again.  Now to a point I start to get fed up by it.  But, we can only continue.

Continue reading “Camino del Cid, Prt. 2”

Camino del Cid, Prt. 1

On my day of departure from Burgos, I first rode north out of town towards Vivar del Cid, a little village with nowadays abt 140 inhabitants. This is the place of birth of Rodrigo Díaz in ca 1043. El cid is one of Spains national hero’s, a knight who fought for the Spanish kings.  In 1094, he conquered Valencia after a 2 year siege.  He ruled there until his death on July 10, 1099.

Molino del Cid at Vivar del Cid, birthplace of the knight.
The official starting point of the Camino del Cid, km zero.
Statue of El Cid in Vivar del Cid

More about El Cid here.

In my whole cycling career, I have never seen a nicer or better documented website about a route as the one of El Cid, with plenty of possibilities, from routes by car, hiking routes, mountainbike routes, gravel options and road cycling options.  You can combine as you wish.  there are plenty of detours, shortcuts and the Continue reading “Camino del Cid, Prt. 1”

On the camino towards Burgos

The weather was terrible, crossing the border in to Spain.
Rain.
Lots of it.

I was riding along the embalse (reservoir) de Irabia which I passed ten years ago in 2014 as well, riding the Transpirenaica.  I hope I had better conditions back then.  I stop for a while, climb a fence and try to shelter under a tiny awning of a deserted building.  It’s so tiny that it’s uncomfortable and as it doesn’t look like it’s going to stop any time soon, I just ride on.
Drenched, I arrived in tiny Aribe.  there’s a small Carrefour supermarket here, where I buy some stuff and eat it under the porch of the church.  I eat slow, go back in the supermarket to buy a chocolate milk, go back to ‘my’ porch, look at my maps, at the sky, at the forecast….

This is no fun, and it’s not going to get any better anytime soon.

My first views of Spain again, the embalse de Irabia.

There seems to be no affordable paid accommodation in the vicinity so I decide to change my planned route, which was going via smaller roads towards Lumbier, Callahora and Soria towards Burgos into something completely Continue reading “On the camino towards Burgos”

France: East – west along the Pyrénéen foothills

From the top of the Col d’Ares, I had marvelous views towards the Massif du Canigou.  The downhill is a beautiful one, but as I’m descending into the valley, village after village there’s more traffic and immediately you’ll notice the different attitude of French drivers compared to the (much, much better) Spanish drivers.  Luckily, there’s another greenway awaiting, the Ancienne Voie Verte D’Arles à Eine.  

French side of Col d’Ares.

Continue reading “France: East – west along the Pyrénéen foothills”