Norway Part 2, The Islands

Lofoten:

Ah, the Lofoten…

This group of islands well above the Polar Circle. I wished to visit them for a long time already.

I arrived with the ferry from Bodo around 21:00 hrs and cycled with a German couple, Kessi and Matthias towards Lofoten’s southern tip, the village A.  The camping didn’t welcome tents anymore, but I saw already an allright wild camping spot on the way in.

At first, there’s no alternative for the E10.  It’s a small road here and they kept the old track around the tunnels open for cyclist.

A MUST do (with thanks to Kessi for the tip) is the hike up the hill just before entering Reine village.    It’s a hard, steep and at times slippery way to the ridge from sea level to 487 m, but the view you get is not possible to catch in a picture (for me at last 😉  ).

It is of utmost importance to take your time when you visit these islands and not simply rush trough over the main artery, the E10.  Take side trips !

Some of them are along dead end roads, but are definitely worth the effort.  That way I visited Nusfjord, the beautiful beaches of Utakleiv, the Venice of the North (another one….) Henningsvaer and made round trips along the fjords south of Leknes, at Austvago, etc…

There are going to be a lot of pics in this one, I’m sorry…

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Near the southern tip of the Lofoten.
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The E10 is a dead end road with a parking lot at the end.

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Love the small ship in the picture.
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The view on the hike up near Reine. Picture cannot show at all how spectaculair it really is.

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In Nusfjord
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Nusfjord
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The dead end road to Nusfjord
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The old road around the tunnel to Utakleiv.
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I had a spectacular camping spot along that old road (closed for traffic).
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The camping along the old road is better as on the beach down, where you have camper vans, and all the noises that are coming with it.

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And down there at the beach, they don’t have the visitors I get.
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Shakira arrived in the morning by helicopter to her yacht.

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Leaving the E10, you will do many extra kilometers, but you’ll be riding on these narrow deserted roads.

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The detour along Gimsoy peninsula towards Hov showed a complete different landscape then the rest from Lofoten.

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The lighthouse at Hov, where I camped along the beach, watching the midnight sun.

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Kessi and Matthias. Love the little tea pot on the panier.
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Henningsvaer.
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Along the dead end road to Henningsvaer.
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Along the dead end road to Henningsvaer.
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After Henningsvaer there’s a tunnel.But there’s also an old road.And look what you get, taking that one ….. 🙂

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At the highest point of the old road, you can take a nice walk up to the hill with good views in the next pics.

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Lofoten Cathedral.

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Not a bad place to lay your head.  Another wild camping spot taking the small roads along Austvagoy.

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Just before Fiskebol, I left the main road to have a better look at the beach.

That’s where I think I lost my Gorilla (tri) pod.

For a few days I felt miserable about that and wanted to punish myself by standing in the corner for an hour or so, but that’s when I realized that since I’m living outside 24/7, there are no corners anymore in my life.

I could do it when I take a ferry from one island to the other, but I guess the other passengers might find it odd, when I stand in the corner the whole passage.

Besides, I have too many things to do on board of the ferry.  Filling up my water bottles, washing myself a bit in the rest room, maybe do some laundry there as well, taking pictures, pay for the passage, eating lunch, or second lunch, ….

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A view from the Lofoten Islands to the Vesteralen Islands.
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The church where I lost the gorillapod.  The mountains of Vesteralen in the background.
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The last fjord on the Lofoten certainly was a good one.

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Last view towards Lofoten.

Vesteralen:

The Vesteralen are a group of islands north of Lofoten.

There too, I mostly took the ‘long way’ around the islands, avoiding the bigger roads.  I had bad whether with lots of rain and one night a storm which became so violent I simply had to break down the tent and sleep in the sanitary facilities.  I’m used to heavy winds in the tent, even holding poles and supporting it from the inside, but this one became way to violent.

I’m not moaning about the wind too much, but still, it is mostly against.  That much that frequently my speed goes into single digits on the flats.

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First kilometer on Vesteralen

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Briliant hut where I spend the night before the stormy one.

 

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Inside the hut.
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Ready for another day fighting against the winds.

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I saw sea eagles frequently.  This one fighting with another bird.

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They ‘ve got these buttons you’ve got to push before entering the tunnels.  Some tunnels even have boxes from which you can take fluo jackets if you wish to use them.

Senja:

Leaving the supermarket in Andenes, I met Dutch cyclist Jos with who I cycled for a day towards the island Senja.

Senja should be one of the most beautiful Norwegian islands, north-east of the Vesteralen.

It’s quiet a long ferry ride and it was still raining when we arrived there.

Late in the afternoon and a big part of the next day, I was very lucky and the sun came out, so I could so how beautiful the region is.

Before arriving in the biggest city of the north, Tromso, I had one more island to cross, Kvaloya Island, where it rained so much that I don’t have to bother anybody with pictures from it.

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Selfie.  Haven’t got a hair cut since leaving home in April 😦
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After a pretty long climb, I arrived art Bergsfjord and wild camped near the water.
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Wild Camping spot at Bergsfjord on Senja.
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Pics from the camping spot.
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Pics from the camping spot.

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Mefjorden
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5 thoughts on “Norway Part 2, The Islands”

  1. Hoi Koen,
    We zijn weer terug uit Zweden en hebben na onze ontmoeting nog vaak aan je gedacht.
    Je bent al een aardig end opgeschoten en aan de mooie foto’s te zien is het weer om te fietsen prima.
    Ik zag dat je ook bij Uttakleif strand overnacht hebt met een mooi uitzicht.
    Ik heb nog drie leuke foto’s van je van onze laatste ontmoeting als je me een mail adres geeft stuur ik ze je door.
    We wensen je nog een veilige reis en zijn benieuwd naar je volgende verslag, we blijven je volgen.
    Groetjes,
    Frans en Rinie, van de Nederlandse camper

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  2. Hi it is the English girl heading to Spain – we met on the road! I couldnt resist looking at your photos of Lofoten as I am now in Tromso just about to head there! You take beautiful pictures and I am excited about going there. Thanks for the wild camping spot tip – I spent the night there too! I look forward to seeing where you nead Next
    Best wishes
    Philippa
    (www.cycleodyssey.org)

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    1. Hi Philippa,

      thanks for your kind words.
      I just arrived in Honningsvåg, going up to the Cape later today.
      Hope you have some beautiful weather on the islands and tail winds blowing you south (I’ll be heading to same direction soon too, so it’s in my advantage as well 😉 ).
      Looking forward to updates on your site.

      Bye,
      Koen

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  3. Hi Koen,
    waren gerade einmal auf deiner Seite schnuppern um zu sehen wo du gerade bist. Wir denken oft an dich und hoffen, daß du noch viele interessante Erlebnisse auf Senja hattest. Auf den Lofoten, auf der Nebenstraße Richtung Fiskebö haben wir dich bis auf 100 Meter eingeholt und uns die Stimme aus dem Leib gebrüllt, doch du hattest nur die geile Landschaft im Kopf 🙂
    Haben an unserem Wintercamp eine Gedenkminute gehalten … Und weg warst du
    An einem der beiden Sonnentagen auf Senja, haben wir noch zwei schöne Hikes auf den Keipen gemacht. Ein Traum !!!
    Ansonsten lief alles glatt bei uns und der Alltag hat uns wieder verschluckt, aber man weiß ja nie was sich noch ergibt.
    Wie ging es bei dir weiter? Wo steckst du gerade?
    Wir wären am liebsten mit dabei.

    Liebe Grüße von Kessi und Mathias
    P.S. Denk mal an den Link von der Alpentour. Danke

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    1. Hi Kessi & Mathias,

      Schade dass Sie nicht mehr an Austvågøy Halbinsel gesehen habe.
      Senia war wirkling unglaublich schön.
      Ich bin jetzt in Finnland ( Kemijarvi ) und fahre langsam nach Süden .

      Die schöne Alps Tour ist die Graubunden Bike: http://www.mountainbikeland.ch/de/routen/route-090.html

      Es gibt viele schöne Routen auf dieser Website. Sie können zwischen dem Mountainbike oder gewöhnlichen Fahrradwegen wählen .
      Halten Sie mich, wenn Sie Bündner Ausritt gebucht. Schwer aber super nett !

      Viele Grüße !
      Koen

      Like

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